Dubreuil Fontaine Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru 2014

Dubreuil Fontaine Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru 2014

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92-94 points  -The Wine Advocate

"The 2014 Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru come from vines that were planted in the 1960s and over the last six to ten years. It has a refined bouquet, quite floral with wilted rose petals infusing the citrus-fresh, red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very tensile and focused, and there are tons of minerals towards the finish that is detailed and precise. This should turn out to the best of the domaine's three Corton Grand Cru.

It took two attempts to visit Christine Gruere, at one of my favorite domaines in Pernand-Vergelesses. Attempt number one. I pull up outside the domaine at exactly the same time as a very smart besuited woman, far too sartorial for a wine journalist. We enter in tandem, eyes askance, wondering who the other person might be. Christine is confused. Turns out that I had been given the wrong time. She was from the bank. Christine had to choose: reviews or bank loan? The money won out (understandably), so having failed to persuade her to cancel Bill Nanson's appointment the following day, we rescheduled for a couple of weeks later. Christine is always chatty and funny, perhaps the only Burgundy vigneron to get my dark sense of humour...or at least I think she does. She has a wide range of reds and white, the latter having already been bottled, the reds imminently. Occasionally the reds can come over a little rustic in style but the domaine has sufficient Premier Crus at their disposal to craft some really quite splendid expressions of this appellation, in particular a lovely Ile de Vergelesses, notwithstanding a very commendable Pommard Villages. Her three crowning Corton Grand Crus were some of the best that I have tasted at Dubreuil-Fontaine -- the Clos du Roi the pick of the bunch but all of them deliver Grand Cru quality. Somewhat predictably, it is her white 2014s that really stood out. I adored the Clos Berthet Blanc with its precision and energy, even more so than her Corton-Charlemagne; also, there was a beautiful Sous Frétille that excelled and will give so much pleasure over the next few years. If you have not discovered these wines, do so. Finally, I do hope that the bank loan came through -- I am sure a few excellent 2014s would have helped secure the money." -NM 12/2015