Charles Somm Box

Charles Somm Box

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Charles Puglia French Wine Discoveries 3 Pack

Charles Puglia has been working as one of the most successful sommeliers and wine directors in New York for the past 10 years. Over that time he has worked at such illustrious restaurants as Jean Georges, the Mandarin Oriental, and Gaia. He spent four years as the Beverage Director of the world-famous Blue Hill at Stone Barns, where he led the restaurant towards achieving the extremely prestigious Wine Spectator Grand Award. He currently works as the Beverage Director at Stephen Starr and Daniel Rose's James Beard award-winning restaurant Le Coucou, where he has created one of the most expansive and forward-looking French focused wine lists in the country. Charles’ extensive knowledge of the vanguard of great French wine made him the perfect person to partner with Le Du's. Below Charles presents three of his favourite new discoveries in French wine. All of these wines are incredibly rare, so quantities are limited.

Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 2016

Despite hailing from the tiny hamlet of Courgis, home to just 260 people, Thomas Pico has created one of the most dynamic and exciting new estates in all of Chablis. Thomas founded Domaine Pattes Loup in 2005, and in just over a decade (the blink of an eye in the world of wine), he has taken the vinous world by storm. His wines are made with minimal intervention yet are richly textured and display an unmatched level of purity and honesty in their interpretation of the region's great terroirs. Domaine Pattes Loup will soon be talked about with the same reverence as Domaines Raveneau and Dauvissat, and they are already just as difficult to find. 

 

Thomas Pico sitting next to an old basket press. All of his wines are made with an old fashioned attitude towards method and perfection of craft. 

I discovered these wines back at Blue Hill and have continued to buy them at Le Coucou, where I usually pair them with classic Quenelle de Brochet with Champagne Beurre Blanc and caviar. The cloud-like texture of the Quenelle is stunning textural match and the acidity in the wine cuts through the rich buttery sauce. Right now we could all use a little luxury in our lives, and this wine delivers the greatest possible Chablisian experience, especially with its few years of bottle age. 


Domaine du Pelican Trousseau Les Bérangèrs 2018

The story of this Domaine begins with Guillaume d'Angerville of the iconic Burgundy estate Marquis d'Angerville blind tasting a Jura chardonnay that would forever change his perception of wines from the region. In 2012 Guillaume purchased vineyard land in the region and began making more classically Burgundian style wines in the region. Like many wine professionals who were already passionate about the Jura, I had mixed feelings about a Burgundian making wine in this region, but after a few vintages I was convinced that these wines were not only great, but they were beautiful and nuanced expressions of the terroir of the region. 

Guillaume D'Angerville with his assistant in the cellar of Domaine du Pelican

Recently Guillaume was able to purchase 4 hectares of vines from the great and recently retired Jacques Puffeney's Les Berangeres vineyard. Puffeney's Trousseau from Berangeres was arguably the greatest red wine made in the Jura, and the fact that Jacques felt comfortable letting Guillaume carry on that legacy is a greater endorsement of these wines than I could ever give. This is the first vintage that Domaine du Pelican has released this wine, a truly exciting and historic moment for the region. Trousseau is a fascinating grape variety that I am a huge fan of not only for its character, but its flexibility with food. This is one of the greatest wines in the world to pair with roast chicken, earthy vegetables, or leaner red meats like venison.  


Clos Canarelli Bonifacio Rouge Tarra di Sognu 2016

The island of Corsica has seen some of the most rapid shifts towards quality of any wine region in the world. Yves Canarelli is leading the charge with his compelling wines, all made from native varieties at his eponymous domaine in the southern region of Figari. The 'Tarra di Sognu' or 'Land of Dreams' is the first ever vintage from a brand new vineyard near a seaside town named Bonifacio that Yves has been preparing for vines for years. The land has some of the shallowest and purest limestone soils in all of France. 

 

Indeed, Yves' hard work and belief in the terroir of Bonifacio has paid off, producing one of the greatest Corsican wines ever, delicately aromatic yet with the structural brawn to pair with comforting quarantine food. At Le Coucou, we pair this with our Lamb dish, a very traditional meat on the island. We serve it two ways - grilled chop served with braised neck stuffed into a hollowed out onion. It is one my favorite pairings we do as the wine has enough lift to not overwhelm the chop, but enough heft to match the richness of the braised neck. Drink with anything rich or gamy at home.

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