Eric Rodez Champagne Cuvee des Grands Vintages Grand Cru
(70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, all barrel-fermented; 4 g/l dosage; made from fruit grown in Ambonnay and aged on its lees for eight years before disgorgement; L09-13): Bright yellow-gold. An intriguingly perfumed nose evokes poached pear, orange zest, sweet butter and honey, along with a smoky quality and a chalky mineral overtone. Chewy, very deep citrus and orchard fruit flavors are complicated by suggestions of toasted brioche, white truffle and candied fig. Finishes very long and smoky, with resonating floral and mineral qualities. I'd serve this complex Champagne, which comprises wines from 15 different vintages dating back to 1995, with an indulgent, buttery poultry or shellfish dish.
- Josh Raynolds, Vinous