Joseph Roty Bourgogne Cuvee de Pressonnier 2014

Domaine Roty is a legend among Burgundy fans not only for the quality and distinctiveness of its wines, but also the unique personality of the domaine’s late owner Joseph (d. 2008). Clive Coates, MW gives us a snapshot of his last visit:

“Roty never stops talking, he needs to discuss the world’s events with you, show you all his vintage photographs, ask your opinion about this or that grower. He stands in your psychological space, and he chain-smokes Gauloise cigarettes; even in his own cellar when someone is trying to taste. Exasperated, I said to him, at the end of a long, tiring, bitterly cold day […] ‘Please M. Roty, I’m trying to taste your wine. Will you please shut up, and if you will insist on smoking please go to the other end of the cellar’. Naturally, I’ve not been allowed back.”

Joseph’s son Philippe has now taken over the winemaking here, but very little has changed about the domaine or its wines. Even from beyond the grave, Joseph Roty’s energy and intensity permeate his wines. All are made with the same impeccable level of care and attention, down the selection of casks (these were made in-house until the late ’60s). Aggressive de-stemming, long cold macerations, and frequent punch downs lead to a concentration of color and vivid sense of fruit unparalleled among burgundies. Roty combines the feminine with the powerful. His style offers richness without excess. This is one of the great entry points for Burgundy available today. It offers the soul, depth, and terroir which makes Burgundy so compelling.